5
Philippe Genion -
5 months ago
Zeik - Hamburg
May 2022
It’s a small restaurant, about 20 places, in a cozy neighbourhood north of the lake.
The interior is pretty basic. It’s a bit design, a bit boring. But there is a long bench which made me happy. One menu with a few choices to make. The two first appetisers are vegetal based, then you choose, shrimp or veggies, lamp or vegetal, all with the same accompanying ingredients. On top of the menu, you can add another course, also poultry or veggie.
The wine list is very large and interesting. The champagne as aperitif was extra brut and wholly pinot noir. Marvellous. The sommelier said « I think I understood you are into natural wines ? ». Big smiles. He offered a Sylvaner with skin contact and a Gewurtztraminer made out of a 13 years solera as orange wine !! I said yes to both. We also took one wine pairing, not to be rude. And also a spatburgunder just to fill the last free spot on the table !
A few mises en bouche, including a raddish and malt vertical cannelloni and a quattuor or carrot based preparations, « A WELCOME FROM THE FIELDS OF HOLLENSTEDT : FOUR TIMES CARROT ???? » were a great start.
Then « BREAD | BUTTER
SOURDOUGH | BEER | THYME » was the fabulous bread arrival. Real good !!
First course, « ASPARAGUS | VINEGAR | HEMP” was an absolute delight. Acidity and suave flavours, perfectly cooked asparagus, crunchy parts, the vinegar was not over the top. Fabulous. 17/20 !!
The wine selection is quite nice. For this second course we got an Italian done made of Spoletto, a grape I had never heard of, vinified with a little of oxygen contact.
“POINTED CABBAGE | CARAWAY | VINEGAR” was also a marvellous course. Powerful and direct to the point, complex in the textures and very pleasant all the way.
Then « TIGER PRAWN | VANILLA | RUTABAGA » It was the least pleasurable dish since the beginning. The shrimp smelled and tasted a bit of vase (bottom of the sea) and not very enjoyable. The rest of the plate was marvellous though. We should have opted for the vegetarian version ! ????????u200d♂️
Then the « added » course : « CHICKEN | CHIVE | POTATO | QUARK | CHIVES » in french, I would say “p*****taing d’assiette de la Mort qui TUUUUE” as it was a **uc**ng amazing BLLOhhhooody fantastic dish !!!! It was based on chicken liver actually and it was to DIE FOR ! Wow de wow. 18!!! Fantastic.
To follow, « LEEK | MUSTARD | BROWN BUTTER ». That was just amazaaaaazing. “A se taper le Q parterre” as we say in french. Also to die for. 18/20 !!! I would have eaten three of those.
Then our second optional main course « LAMB | CELERY | JUNIPER » or
« CELERY | UNIPER | ROASTED VEGETABLES ». We had one of both. I liked the veggie version better. However, this was “strong” as a main course is supposed to be. And is shouldn’t have to be. It was good. Sure.
« THE BEGINNING OF THE END » was around HIBISCUS | BEET ROOT, a superb pre-dessert on freshness, acidity and textures. Marvellous.
Then « SEA BUCKTHORN | HEMP | COFFEE » was very confusing. At first it seemed kinda boring. Not very sweet. Few crunchy parts. Then you got to the center part, with more avidity and bitterness. And then everything made sense !!! Sweet but not too sweet. Fresh but not too cold. Bitter but just enough. What a fascinating journey this dessert was !!! Great !
Great service too, the owner is very present in the house and connects really well.
All in all this was a very very nice meal. For me 17/20 moyenne and 2* if the place was more beautiful. It’s the only thing : the looks. But the warmth of the people working there is a total compensation for it.
I recommend it highly !!!
